Sustainability in Fashion: Evaluation on the interpersonal relationship clothing & consumerism has on emotions and the environment 

04/03/2024

The fashion discourse community

A discourse community is a group of people who share a common goal or interest and use a specific set of language and communication practices to achieve that goal or maintain that interest. These communities are defined by the ways in which their members communicate and the purposes for which they communicate. In other words, a discourse community is a group of people who use language in a particular way to accomplish a specific purpose. The term fashion, can be defined as "a popular way of dressing during a particular time or among a particular group of people; the business of creating and selling clothes in new styles" (Merriam-Webster.com, s.v. "fashion"). Clothes have an intimate relationship with the physical Human body and humans many time perceive their clothing as their "embodied identity".

The fashion community is divide into subsections of discourse communities. Runway discourse, Luxury retail discourse, Environmental fashion discourse, and their usually tend so be sectors within these discourses for example models, creative directors, photographers, hair and makeup would all be under the runway industry discourse. Fashion enthusiasts use a variety of diffrent platforms to communicate and read about the latests fashion news. Blogs, social media, and fashion shows/events are all communication channels in which the fashion community creates and holds space for its members. One key aspect of a fashion discourse community is the fact that its members are required to have a certain level of expertise or knowledge in order to fully participate in the community. This expertise may come in the form of firsthand experience working in the fashion industry, as well as a deep understanding of fashion history and current trends. Members of this community are also expected to be fluent in the specialized vocabulary and jargon of the fashion world, such as terms related to design, production, and marketing.Without a fashion discourse community, the knowledge and expertise of individual members would be isolated and inaccessible, hindering the ability of the fashion industry to thrive and grow.


History

The compromising of quality for quantity and rapid production can be traced back in history to the 1920s when women adopted more athleisure wear, and after the Great Depression in 1929-1939 this was replaced with long, flowy dresses influenced by french designers like Coco Chanel and Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli. During WW2 the replacement of quality and value to save money was a big theme that was introduced into the fashion industry. In 1941 was where this compromise was seen limiting the range of garments and fabrics to cheaper and more industrial options. (Mair)

The Big Question?

A quick response system known as "fast fashion" was quickly adapted, it creates low-priced, low-quality apparel options based on high-end fashion trends. Its sheer nature promotes constant consumption and disposability. The fashion industry is under increasing pressure to lessen its environmental impact, thus sustainability strategies and experiments are becoming more significant. One example of a sustainability practice in fashion is the use of eco-friendly materials. This can include the use of organic cotton, recycled polyester, and other sustainable fabrics in the production of clothing and accessories. By using these materials, fashion companies can reduce their reliance on non-renewable resources and minimize the amount of waste they generate. By adopting these practices, fashion companies can reduce their carbon footprint and minimize their impact on the environment. The big question in mind however is how do today's young customers, who are so quick to adopt environmental concepts such as veganism, striking against animal testing, and more; find a middle ground between their constant need for the newest styles and their seeming commitment to environmental sustainability?


I have come to notice how overlooked the concept of sustainability and ethical decisions making is, both by big corporations and consumers , especially when it comes to the buying of clothing when it is labeled under such high regarded fashion houses. However, this doesn't mean that all business no matter how big their names are practice ethical business decisions. I wanted to take a closer look at what exactly the people that I am in contact with who are part of the fashion discourse community do on the average to contribute to the sustainability movement, and how they incorporate these practices into their personal closets and everyday styling.

Experiment

I conducted an experiment in which I asked many of my fashion driven friends who consider themselves to be apart of a fashion community of some sort ex. Subscribed to vogue, fashion blogs, attend fashion schools, fashion designers, sales associates and managers of stores in design district; several psychological questions in regards to their connection to clothing, as well as what exactly sustainability meant to them in order to see how deeply the concept of environmental waste alters the course of their relationship and purchase history with clothing.

The questions asked included:


 1. What is a major factor in your decision making when it comes to buying clothing?

2. Do you create an emotional connection with clothing or rather see it as an accessory to be altered over time?

3. What is an experience with clothing that made you feel empowered?

4. How do you communicate to others with what your wearing?

5. What do you think sustainability in fashion means?


 Results

Based of the answers I gathered these where the summaries

  1. A common answer that was said by 8 of my 10 interviewees was the importance of versatility and the ability to coordinate other components into the piece. Ex.Dress it up or dress it down. Durability and quality was a surprising factor that many people did not mention.
  2. Answers to this question almost all related clothing to a psychological factor and emotional connection. The answers that stood out to me personally ranged from: " I definitely create an emotional connection with my clothing as it usually reminds me of experiences I have lived wearing them".-Gaby, (Marketing manager for Hurry-up Slowly one of Miamis largest growing afro-house party labels.) "It takes a lot of thought and each piece I have has to be able to be styled into at least three different outfits so they must be cohesive with what I already own."-Kayla, (Manager and stylist for Cult Gaia in Design District). "It's 100% emotional. my outfit depends what emotion i'm feeling that day if it's more conservative or sexy"-Sofia Perez (Model and Sales Associate for Splash Boutique)
  3. Feedback on data gathered where clothing made individual feel empowered ranged from; finding vintage pieces when going thrifting the first time, to styling others in diffrent aesthetics of clothing and seeing how their mood was instantly altered, and more.
  4. Communication is also expressed at a subconscious level in the discourse of the fashion community. The answers almost all included the mentioning of colors as reflections of internal and subconscious emotions. "Depending on my mood I will change the color of the garments I am wearing or even the style when I am feeling cozy or less confident I wear mostly street style. This style of dressing actually gives me a feeling of security which does boost my confidence. Sneakers, baggy, jeans or cargos and an over sized T- shirt or sweater are my go-to fashion safety blankets. My closet consists mostly of neutrals and dark hues I rarely like to draw attention to myself in my every day wardrobe."-Kayla
  5. From the answers gathered sustainability and the idea of recycling old clothing referred to as "thrifting" were all concepts and actions the individuals partook in . The answers gathered contained the notions that sustainability in fashion meant buying lasting pieces, reconstructed pieces from different fabrics, and ethically sourced materials all in an attempt to save our planet.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the results surprisingly demonstrated that many individuals who truly have a regard to fashion do make themselves aware of its environmental cons and practice recycling of old garments by giving them new life, ex. thrifitng and upcyclying. Moving forward it is important that as a community, ownership and acknowledgment is made by both big corporations and consumers to help reduce the waste produced. Establishing return old garment programs within department and clothing stores have already started to become adopted, and with new technological advancements it is not long before full discrepancy will be available to consumers about the sourcing and production of the clothing they are buying. Highly encouraging others to fill their wardrobe with more sustainable options as it prevents landfills from filling up and gives new life to old pieces is another way to start spreading the message as an individual in the community. The mass production of anything has a very serious effect on the environment, and sooner or later humanity will feel the effects of it if the ways in which spending, producing and sourcing of materials are not changed. There is also so much beauty in vintage fashion. Not only that but just trading pieces with people in close circles can elevate your wardrobe and save money all at the same time, while still protecting our earth!


            


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